Biggest cave in the world

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VietNamNet Bridge - Twenty years after he stumbled on the discovery, a local farmer leads a British caving team to the find of the century.

A member of the caving team crosses the river which formed the Son Doong cave during the April expedition. Photos courtesy of the Joint British-Vietnamese Caving Expedition 2009/ The entrance of the Son Doong cave, which is hidden by a boulder.

A team of British cavers recently announced record-breaking news – the discovery in Quang Binh Province of the largest cave in the world.

But the presence of the British team has eclipsed one very important figure in the story – 40-year-old Ho Khanh – a local man and guide for the expedition who says he first found the cave nearly 20 years ago, but lost it again.

Back to the start

Today the forty-year-old farmer mans a tea stall in a village on the edge of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. "I first found the cave 18 years ago, in 1991," he says.

"I was out collecting firewood near the national park. My family were very poor, so I decided to go deeper into the forest to try and find some aloe. The resin is used to make perfume and it’s very valuable. Not many people went that far into the forest at the time because they were scared of the wild animals."

After walking for about 20km Khanh says he lost his way. Clouds started gathering in the sky, so he decided to look for shelter.

"I sat down with my back to a huge boulder. Then something strange happened. I heard the sound of a strong wind and running water coming from behind me."

Adam Spillane, a member of the team, in Son Doong. The expedition was assisted by the Ha Noi University of Science, the People’s Committee of Quang Binh and several other sponsors.

Khanh went to investigate and found the entrance to an enormous cave, with a wide river flowing out of it.

"I was very surprised. I thought I knew many caves in this region, but this one was so different and seemed to be untouched by man. It was pitch black, but judging by the feeling of the air, I thought I was walking into a huge space. The strong wind blowing felt like something from the underworld."

With no ropes or lights, Khanh did not venture further into the cave. A day after he’d first set out, he arrived back home.

"I didn’t have any aloe, but in my mind I had the image of a great cave."

Khanh’s story spread like wildfire, but not everyone believed him.

"I wanted to prove my word, but I couldn’t remember the way to the cave. It was a wild place, with no human tracks."

Eventually, the story became legend. Khanh quit his dream of becoming rich from aloe and went back to doing his daily chores: collecting fire wood and farming. But he never gave up on the hope that one day he would find the cave again.

All is not lost

Ho Khanh shows photos of the expedition in his house on the edge of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park.

It wasn’t until one morning in early winter, 2006, that Khanh’s cave dream was rekindled. A group of cavers from Britain, on a trip to find new caves in the Phong Nha – Ke Bang region, came to ask Khanh for help, as they had heard about his discovery 15 years before.

Khanh agreed to guide the team to find the legendary cave, but after three days in the jungle, Khanh and the team were still at a loss.

"I just couldn’t remember where it was," he says.

There were some perks. On their expedition, the group did find 11 previously unrecorded caves. The British team even named one of them after the farmer.

"One of my favourite caves that we found on our trip had a lake and many beautiful stalactites that sparkled in the light. We called it Thai Hoa, after my daughter."

The team returned to the park for two more expeditions, but each time were beaten by the density of the jungle. Finally the cavers gave in and left, asking Khanh to contact them if he found it again.

In a final effort to recover his memory, Khanh headed to the jungle one cold winter’s morning in 2009.

"I stopped by a big boulder. There was the same strong wind, the sound of water running – I knew I’d found the cave at long last. I can’t describe my feelings at the time, I was so overjoyed."

The team immediately came back to Viet Nam and followed Khanh on a six-hour treck deep into the jungle. On April 14 they found what they were looking for.

Measuring 200m high and 150m wide, the new cave, named Son Doong (Mountain River Cave) by Khanh, is believed to be almost twice the size of the current record holder, Deer Cave in Sarawak Malaysia.

The cave is in Phong Nha-Ke Bang grotto system, which belongs to the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. It is a limestone region of 2,000sq.km and borders another limestone area in Hin Nammo in Laos.

According to Adam Spillane, a member of the team, the cave is over 4km long at present but the end of the main passage continues on. The team were unable to go further because of a calcite wall more than 45m high halted their progress.

"Khanh has been a guide for the team for many expeditions in the jungle to explore caves. This year he took the team to a cave which had never been explored before, not even by local people," Spillane says.

The cave was a thing of overwhelming beauty and grandeur, spokesman for the team, Haward Limbirt says.

"We plan to return to Viet Nam later to complete our expedition of the cave and conduct a full survey," he says.

Back to normal

The cave is believed to be almost twice the size of the current record holder, Deer Cave in Sarawak Malaysia.

After the team returned to Britain, Khanh settled back into his everyday routine.

"I just think about how I’m going to earn enough money to feed my family. I only earn VND800,000 (US$50) per month."

His discovery has yet to reap financial gains, Khanh says.

"We are still as poor as we were before. Actually, I still haven’t paid off the VND10 million ($550) loan I borrowed ten years ago to develop our farm and animal husbandry."

Khanh’s obsession with the cave has been hard on his nearest and dearest, his wife Le Thi Nghia says.

"Sometimes I get angry because he just wants to go to the jungle and look at caves, but I understand he is very passionate about it. After all of this, I’m proud of him."

Nghia says the only thing she asks for is recognition from the Government and the press for what her husband has done for the country.

VietNamNet/VNS

Huong Pagoda Festival

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Huong Pagoda Festival


Time: From the 6th day of the first lunar month to the 15th day of the third lunar month, main festival days last from the 15th day to the 20th day of the second lunar month.
Place: Huong Son Commune, My Duc District, Ha Tay Province.
Objects of worship: Sakyamuni Buddha, Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva, Holy Mothers.

Characteristics: One of the longest festivals with the most spacious area.

Approximately 70 kilometers southwest of Ha Noi, Huong Son boasts quite a few pagodas built in the Posterior Le Dynasty. Until the beginning of the 20th century, there have over 100 pagodas. Visitors can go to Huong Son via the Ha Dong - Van Dinh route.

Vietnamese or foreigners alike wish to come to Huong Son in springtime. Heading there tourists come to a magnificent land, a famous beauty spot in Vietnam.

Going boating in Yen Stream, visitors get a stunning view of the landscape in springtime. Here lies Ngu Nhac Mountain, there stand Hoi Bridge, Dun and Voi Phuc (Prostrating Elephant) mountains. Then come Thuyen Rong (Dragon Boat) and Con Phuong (Phoenix) mountains, not to mention various other mountains named after their shape like Ong Su (Buddhist Monk), Ba Vai (Buddhist nun), Mam Xoi (Tray of Sticky Rice), Trong (Drum), or Chieng (Gong).


At Trinh Temple visitors stop to burn incense and present to the Mountain Deity before going on their journey to Ba Cave. In front of the cave spreads a land with magnificent beauty. Leaving Ba Cave, tourists go to Tro Wharf, the starting point for the trekking up the mountain. Thien Tru Pagoda is the first destination. Known as the Kitchen of Heaven, it boasts Thien Thuy - a tower-like natural rock, and Vien Cong Tower an exquisite terracotta architectural structure dated back to the 17th century. On the right of the pagoda stands Tien Son Grotto, housing five statues carved out of stone and many stalactites and stalagmites which can be used as musical instruments.

To reach Huong Tich Grotto one go past a winding path paved with slabs of stone nature has smoothed. Alongside the path visitors has a chance to feast their eyes on stunning landscapes. In the 18th century, upon coming here Lord Trinh Sam had the words “The most beautiful grotto under the Southern skyâ€� chiselled above the mouth of the grotto. Pushing into its belly, visitors get a spectacular view. Many stalactites and stalagmites are named after their shape: Rice Pile, Money Pile, Gold Tree, Silver Tree to name but a few. Inside there are statues of King’s Father, Queen, Avalokitesvara, and so on. Noteworthy is the Cuu Long structure with nine dragons flanking from above.


There are many interesting pagodas, caves and grottoes in Huong Son. Among them include Long Van, Tuyet Son, Hinh Bong, and so forth. The Ong Bay (Sung Sam) Cave, 2km from Long Van Pagoda, still retains traces of ancient people some tens of thousands of years ago.

Unlike any other places, Huong Pagoda harmonizes the characters of a Buddhist architectural complex with the impressive natural beauty. Coming here, tourists have chances to live in a boisterous atmosphere of a spring festival amidst beautiful landscape. They seem to be free from all tiredness and sorrow and come to pay respect to the compassionate Buddha.

Cai River-Ancient House-Hot Spring Centre

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Apart from the beautiful beach and ocean, Nha Trang has a beautiful river called Cai. As part of this tour, tourists travel down the Cai River to observe the peaceful life of the villages along Nha Trang waterway.

Meanwhile, the hot spring's mineral water and mineral mud silica are recognised for their health-boosting properties. Besides relaxing the body and stimulating the nervous system, they are also known to cure skin diseases and make the skin white and soft.


The tour itinerary is as follows:

8 am: Pick-up and transfer to harbour.

9 am: Visit Cu Lao Fish Market. This market opens very early in the morning. It is essentially a collection point where all the fishermen deliver their catch. Seafood is then distributed from here to all the markets in Nha Trang. Next on the agenda is a visit to Song Thuy shipyard and Hang pagoda.

10 am: Cruise down the river to catch a glimpse of the daily life of local people.

11.30 am: Visit Ancient House, which is over 200 years old, and see art sculptured furniture. Enjoy the fresh fruits in the garden.

12.30 pm: Boat trip to river-side restaurant, lunch and then a visit to the mat-making village. Enjoy fresh coconut water.

2 pm: Visit Thap Ba Hot Mineral Spring Centre; indulge in a mud bath or soak in the hot mineral water.

5 pm: Return to hotel.